Fri 28th Nov.

Today we take the train to Bruges. Bruges is lovely – clean, neat, with plenty of character, much of which comes from the distinctive Flemish architecture.

We’ve looked up veggie restaurants on Paul’s Blackberry on the journey. There are three possibilities and we head straight off for the nearest when we arrive. Phew, there’s one table free. It’s a set menu, consisting of several different things on one plate. You can choose what size plate to go for. We are restrained and opt for medium. When it arrives it looks like I can eat everything on it. Oh goody! There are courgettes in a tempura batter (gorgeous), a brown lentil casserole, brown rice (again!), seaweed marinated in soy sauce, a cold spaghetti and basil salad (slightly disconcerting but very nice all the same), green salad, red cabbage salad in a soya vinaigrette dressing, and I think that’s it. Oh yes, and sprouts – yes, Brussels sprouts. It’s really good and we wish we’d gone for large. This place too is busy, and it appears that quite a few of the diners know each other and stop to greet each other, adding to the generally lively atmosphere. The décor is simple but elegant, very clean, bright and inviting. Yes, I’d like to come here again!

I am a little out of my comfort zone language wise in Bruges as it is very definitely Flemish-speaking. In Brussels all signs, etc. are in both French and Flemish and people in shops, restaurants, etc tend to speak French. I suppose they’re all fluent in Flemish too but I don’t know. However, the people of Bruges are amazing: everywhere we go waiters, bank cashiers – everyone - just switches effortlessly to excellent English as soon as they realise we’re English.

The market square here is fantastic. It’s smaller than the one in Brussels and is surrounded by buildings in the Flemish style. The Christmas market is in full swing, and there’s a skating rink too. Paul has a go whilst I hold the coats. Then it’s into a bar overlooking the square to warm up as it gets dark. I’d love hot chocolate but have to settle for black coffee. It’s not the same.

Back outside, after buying a few presents at the stalls and having a cup of the obligatory Gluhwein, we head for the station, mostly at a running pace as we’ve underestimated how long it will take to get there.

The Grande Place back in Brussels is now lit up in splendour. There’s a Christmas tree with lights, some tubes with constantly changing coloured lights, projected lit patterns on the buildings and spotlights on the buildings. All this and music too. And now the Christmas Market is well and truly open. We go and eat in a Chinese restaurant. The menu offers vegetable dishes with a choice of egg noodles or non-egg noodles. Excellent. I have to say, it’s nice to not be eating rice again.

I think that after that we have yet more Gluhwein.